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Capture a Headshot Easily!

Tess' headshot from a more glamour shoot in Philadelphia.

Tess' headshot from a more glamour shoot in Philadelphia.

Often you’ll hear photographers or models commenting on their need for a good headshot for their portfolios and indeed, the ability to showcase your talent as a photographer of models needs to include a nice headshot.  Models, especially agency models, have comp cards to showcase their talents to potential clients and the front image of an industry standard comp card is the headshot, though I’ve seen many variations of what people consider a proper headshot.

I’d say first, don’t confuse an actor’s headshot with a model’s headshot, usually those are two different types of headshots and for this quick blog post, my focus will be on capturing a model’s headshot—not so much the technical, but the approach.

Normally when a model comes to me needing a new headshot, I take a simple approach. I set up one of my normal photo shoots with the model and let her know that if I see the headshot I’ll take it, as I don’t want to plan a “headshot shoot.”  I let her know most models, even some experienced ones, will “freeze” up when they know the photographer is focusing on a headshot.  So I educate them with the idea, that the best headshot comes when the model doesn’t know I’m taking one, thus, I push for a regular photo shoot.

Elite agency model Jenni provides a great comp card image from a normal shoot.

Elite agency model Jenni provides a great comp card image from a normal photography session that include full-length poses.

Basically, when a photographer and a model agree only on a shoot to capture a headshot, it becomes too planned and everyone expects it to be done in 30-minutes. Based on my experience, the model becomes a different person and a great headshot is usually harder to capture in this mindset.  Not to mention, the photographer becomes too focused on creating a headshot under a short period of time and tends to lose their creative passion.  It’s this passion along with great communication and rapport with the model that normally creates a marriage of the minds to bring out that perfect smile—when the corners of the model’s eyes are in perfect harmony with the corners of her lips. Normally a great photographer won’t achieve this in 30 minutes.

I prefer to shoot a normal glamour, fashion or flamour photography session and as the shoot evolves and I “see” the headshot, I step up to the plate and capture it—usually the model doesn’t even know what I’ve captured it in my camera and assumes I’m still shooting her entire pose.  One advantage to this approach, if the model is posing for me in sexy clothes, she’s going to feel sexy and usually it’s easier to capture one of the four S’s of glamour photography, sexy, sultry, seductive, sensual or a combination of the four in her looks. This leads to a more alluring image, a more provocative but tasteful image.

Headshots are like portraits and in most people photography, if you don’t have “the face,” you have nothing, no matter what the model is or is not wearing.  It’s always about the face when it comes to a great image of your model, especially the headshot.  So if you or your model needs a great headshot, the best approach, treat it like a normal photo shoot and capture the headshot when it happens, not when it’s planned.

Well that’s it for now and as in all my closing remarks, please remember our men and women serving in the military along with their families and friends, as ultimately they sacrifice many things in life to give us the ability to enjoy our freedoms.  God Bless them all and may they all come home safe!  Thanks, Rolando

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The Future of Photography Books–Free Books!

Photographic Therapy--The Power of Photography to Help Build or Rebuild Self-Esteem

Photographic Therapy--The Power of Photography to Help Build or Rebuild Self-Esteem

As I work on my photo captions for my fourth photography book for Amherst Media, I started to think about a blog post on liveBooks.com’s blog, Resolve, by Miki Johnson with support from Andy Adams of Flak Photo concerning the future of photobooks by the year 2019. As a published author of three, traditionally printed photography “how-to” books, a fourth in editing and the recent release (http://www.freephotographybooks.com) of my revised fifth book, Photographic Therapy—The Power of Photography to Help Build or Rebuild Self-Esteem, I thought I’d chime on book publishing in a daring manner.

First, the publishing industry in general, from newspapers to bookstores, struggles in this tough economy.  Technology has thrown many challenges at them, from Amazon’s Kindle to Sony’s Daily Edition and even Barnes and Nobles’ Nook, though Amazon has the iPhone edge when looking at smart phones as analogy.  But then again, with the recent release of Apple’s iPad, the state of publishing is really going to take a new road. [Read more...]

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Goals, the Key to the New Decade

While there are many folks out there arguing if the new decade starts in 2010 or 2011, one thing for sure it’s a new year and obviously many like myself made new resolutions to live by and all seem to have a common thread, that 2010 will be better than the previous year.  I wholeheartedly agree and without getting too personal in my life I’ll give you insight on my thoughts for the New Year.

As humans we all make mistakes, and Lord knows I made quite a few in the past decade, the key is how we learn from these mistakes.  My greatest mistake in the last decade was trusting in too many people that promised so many great things, often that lead me to promise others things I found out I could not deliver unless the promises made to me became reality—some did, most didn’t.  I trusted too many people and that alone impacted some of my own integrity—but I’ve learned from it, trust less, trust yourself and your gut more.

Still my best friend in life, Rhonda.

Still my best friend in life, Rhonda.

I’ve always been taught to help others, that I did in the past decade more than ever.  Many took that help and never looked back and said thank you, others did say thank you, and the reality of it all, I learned who were truly friends for the sake of friendship and were friends only for their own personal gain.  Obviously during this trial of friendship you separate the two, sometimes more quickly than others—but ultimately you know who they are and they know who they are too. My mantra is simple, never be a quitter, always look forward.  Keep the passion alive and the passion will guide your goals.

I set many goals in the previous decade, some I didn’t accomplish, but the importance is that I set my goals.  My goal strategy is like in the military promotion board system for noncommissioned officers, we express long-term and short-term goals as part of our promotion evaluation.  While 2010 will start out tough at first, I foresee that it will finally begin to flow much smoother than the past, especially if I stay focused on my goals, perhaps I will even get promoted.

My short term goal this year is to push very hard in getting my “photographic therapy” concept out to many, my long-term goal is to realign my business back to a level higher than it once was, to move more forward in my photography and writings in a more positive manner without impacting it in negative fashion from potentially false friends and false promises. It’s time for me to use the lessons learned to help decipher quicker who is real and who is in it for their own benefit.  It’s time for me to make wiser decisions and focus more on what I do best based on experience, passion, and creativity.

In the new decade, as I’m one of those that feels the decade started in 2010, I plan on avoiding conflict, poor decisions and learning to filter the real from the unreal.  I plan on spreading the gospel of photography in every possible way my passion guides me to do so, for the benefit of others of my choice, and those that stand with me will gain, those that don’t, will be short-lived in my life as I have far less room for error in this decade as I get older and much wiser.  Separating the real from the unreal only gets easier because I don’t live the past, I’ve learned from it and learned there is always better.

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20-Photo Tips, Working With Women

jenni0054

"A woman is a mystery a man just can't understand"--Billy Currington

A woman is a mystery most men don’t understand, and in the type of photography I do, you have to gain an insight into women before you even think about picking up the camera—and it’s not always easy, because everyone is different.

However, here’s some tips for you “male” photographers that might help, most learned over my 30-years of photography.  These are 20 quick, photography tips when working with women professionally as a photographer, not how to pick them up!

1. Many of you know I like to talk a lot, can’t help it, it’s my passion, but as a photographer, I build rapport with my subject by just being silent, and listening.  I become the bartender, beautician, clergy, psychologist, etc., and just listen.  Remember, pressing the shutter-release button is only five-percent of the equation for a great image.

2.  Smile, open her door, be polite, be a gentleman, don’t say, “Here, put this on!”  Instead, say, “What do you think about this outfit?”  Let her make the decision, don’t make it for her—the exception is in a paid client shoot that requires a female model, usually there is no choice for either party.

3.  Never say, “Make love to the camera baby.”  If she doesn’t slap you, I would. (grin)  Instead, as you shoot, say, “You look beautiful, gorgeous, fabulous, or something in that manner in a nice, gentle tone.  Don’t over do it, keep it infrequent, but say it throughout the shoot more than a few times and be sincere.

4.  It’s about her, not you.  Your goal is to make her smile with your images, rapport, and for a lack of better words, “bedside” manner as an analogy if you were a doctor.  Remember though, you are not her doctor.  You are not there to solve her problems, only listen.

5.  Never say, “tuck your tummy or suck your gut or belly.”  Always say, “Can you please straighten your back?”  If you’re married, you know this already as your wife will some day say, “Honey, do I look fat?”  If you even hesitate to answer while gasping for air, you are wrong, the answer is always, “No baby, you look as beautiful as the day I first met you.”

6.  If she mentions that other photographers or photographs of the past make her look fat, say, “It was probably the photographer’s fault because they didn’t turn one hip away from the camera in the pose and a camera lens perspective will naturally add weight, especially if the hips are photographed straight on.”

7.  Never say, we can fix your wrinkles or “crow’s feet” in Photoshop.  Instead, say (if she asks about wrinkles around her eyes), “That’s just the good-life and I’ll take care of it for you naturally, don’t worry about a thing.”  Taking care of it in Photoshop is nothing a model really wants to hear, because in essence, you’re acknowledging she’s got faults.  And for the record, photo editors and art directors don’t want to hear that either.

8.  Never refer to augmented breasts as “fake” even if she calls them that.  Breasts are all real, augmented breasts are just enhanced.  The skin and breast tissue, augmented or not, are real.

9.  Explain to your subject you’re there to capture her inner beauty too, not just the outer beauty that anyone can capture with a disposable camera.  You’re there because you’re a professional at capturing that inner beauty.

10.  Compliment, compliment.  Compliment her eyes, her hair, her legs, her physique, her voice, her ladyness, her talent.  Compliment anything you can along the way.  Give your subject confidence, do not destroy it and she’ll send you more customers by word of mouth.

11.  Never offer to be a model manager and manage her career, real professionals in the modeling and photography industry despise model managers and respect licensed model agents or bookers.  You are a photographer, stick with what you know best not what you think you know—you’ll only annoy us professionals as I avoid “model managed” subjects like the plague as do most agencies and credentialed photographers.

A perfect smile comes from a relaxed model, when the corners of the eyes are in harmony with the corners of the lips.

A perfect smile comes from a relaxed model, when the corners of the eyes are in harmony with the corners of the lips.

12.  Use a make-up artist when all possible and let your make-up artist pre-grease the skids for your first shoot with your subject.  A good MUA knows how to comfort and build confidence in your subject before you ever start.  A good MUA supports you and collects a check, a great MUA is loyal, understands your work, and knows she’ll be well-compensated for her talents, but not just with money, but with future work and references.  Loyalty comes with loyalty, just like respect.

13.  If you’re not sure you might offend your subject, ask another female first.  Walk up to a mirror, then ask yourself what you plan on asking of your subject.  If it sounds weird or strange to you, it will be tens times worse to your subject.  Be considerate in all you ask your subject and never force her to do anything she doesn’t want to do.  Remember, it’s all about the face, not what she’s wearing or not wearing.  No face, and the rest doesn’t matter, you might as well cut your shoot off.

14.  A models portfolio should only contain one or two of your images and one or two of other photographers, no different than your hand-carried portfolio should be a book diverse of talent from various models.  This can differ on specialized on-line portfolios, like my Moab Light portfolio on my .com pro site by Livebooks.com.

15.  If all seems not to be working right, reschedule the shoot and go back to item #1 on this list and start over from scratch—the past is the past.

16.  Build rapport with your subject. Rapport starts with the first email, phone call, etc., and never stops, even after the shoot.  Like credit it takes time to build and one incident to destroy it.  Rapport never starts when you pick up the camera, it just continues from the beginning and never ends.

17.  It’s about quality, not quantity, do not “spray and pray,” make each shot count and only show your subject the best images in the end.  Never burn a CD and give her everything you shot.  The real difference between a professional photographer and an amateur isn’t money, it’s the fact that a professional photographer understands what makes a image good or great and never shows their bad images—we all take them.  It’s called “burning film” to get to where we need with our subject.

18.  Never tell your subject your problems.  They are their because they want to feel like the queen for the day, not your psychologist, bartender, beautician, etc., they are your subject, it’s their day, not yours.

19.  Make sure your equipment is ready to go the day before, camera batteries charged, lights ready to go.  Don’t look like a clumsy fool during your shoot, otherwise your subject will not have confidence in you or your results.

20. Joke with your subject casually, not obnoxiously.  Joking, especially mild humor relaxes the facial muscles.  If you can’t do that, provide some chocolate, better yet, dark chocolate, it’s best, but have both.  Forget white chocolate.  The idea is a relaxed face and make sure the clothing you select or ask her about is something she’s comfortable with, otherwise you’ll wind up with “tight face” images which is wasted time for you both.

Well that’s straight off the top of my head as I write this blog entry in five minutes or less.   Please don’t forget our military members, their families and friends this holiday season while you open gifts or sit by that warm fireplace.  Without them, you wouldn’t have that luxury or the luxury of photographing a beautiful subject.  God Bless, thanks, Rolando.

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The 10th Muse

I often love shadows to add mood to an image...

I often love shadows to add mood to an image...

Every photographer, and creative for that matter, needs a muse, someone that inspires their artistic talent, unfortunately I’ve had many over my 30-year career as a photographer, though I lost the most important, the 10th muse.  Like most modern muses, they come and go in this business as everyone will eventually live their lives and then the good-byes come to reality and it’s time to find a new muse.  Though as sad as this might sound, it’s just a fact for most artists, and not a bad thing, as the word muse comes from Ancient Greek which started with three then went to nine muses.

People move on, even our muses.  Sometimes it’s a heartbreaker, ultimately, it’s usually better for both parties, though the key to knowing you had a great muse, is that all memories, inspirational and personal, are cherished for a million years—if you feel that way about your muse, it was ideal, not wasted inspiration.

From an upcoming book, "One Light, One Chair."

From an upcoming book, "One Light, One Chair."

An ideal muse to me is someone that allows a “marriage of the minds” to create something together, not just someone that feeds my artistic passion to photograph someone else.  I prefer a muse that lights up my camera lens when we feel the creative passion together, anything else that inspires me tends to come from mentors.  I always associate songs to my muse too, as music multiplies the inspiration when photographing my muse; Think of it as an MTV music video you might like—the music and the videography together invoke your emotions.

Just like great photographs that invoke your emotions and propel your mind into a new dimension, a muse should propel your creative juices forward with creative passion, much like being in love with your significant other, if there is no passion, you truly are living a false relationship. As a photographer, my ultimate muse is the “tenth muse.”

Nothing like natural light creating mood in the image, feel the passion?

Nothing like natural light creating mood in the image, feel the passion?

Plato named Sappho, an Ancient Greek born on the island of Lesbos, as the tenth muse.  While this compliment was for a poetic muse, photography is poetry to me, so I’ll close by saying, I miss my tenth muse.   Have to run, have a safe and happy holiday season and don’t forget our men and women in the military along with their families and friends—God Bless, Rolando.

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Lenses and Form

Form is dimensional, shapes are flat and in this image, we see form created by many shapes, color, shadows and textures.

Form is dimensional, shapes are flat and in this image, we see form created by many shapes, color, shadows and textures.

Often I’m asked from photographers at my workshops, “Which lens do I use?”  The answer is simple, “The right lens for the right image.”  Like all lenses in your photography gearbox, lenses are just another tool we use to create what we see, feel and capture, in a fraction of a second and I always choose the lens that I feel will help me see the subject in the right form.

Form is something many photographers truly fail to understand.  When a photographer captures form in an image, they’ve captured all visible elements in a three-dimensional illusion.  Often form is confused with shape, whereas shape is the physical dimensions of a subject seen in a two-dimensional medium (flat); form unites all the shapes.  When we have form in an image, we’ve got more than a picture, we’ve got a photograph, often powerful, but more often, invoking an emotion to the viewer.

Form utilizes lens perspective, shadows, and light to show dimensions such as height, width, and thickness in your subject and all the elements that make an image.  As an example, photograph a candle straight on with flat lighting and you have a two-dimensional image of a candle, similar to those you see on the front of a Christmas card.  Now add a few candles, switch your shooting angle, move your light so it comes from the side or back to create chiaroscuro in the image, perhaps even set your aperture value low and use a longer lens for background compression and separation from your subject, now you have a photo of candles, but more important, you’ve illustrated form.

While there are many reasons to choose various lenses, such as when I was shooting NBA basketball you have one camera and lens for downrange shots and another for shots under the goal, ultimately the choice of which lens to use is based on your goal to produce form in an image along with your specific shooting style or intended result.  In a nutshell, use the right tool for the right photograph.  Thanks, and God Bless our troops, their families and friends.  Rolando

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Monte Zucker Had Some Great Advice

Playboy Playmate Holley Dorrough illuminated from the side.  Lighting is the sun during the Golden Hour in the Moab.

Playboy Playmate Holley Dorrough illuminated from the side. Lighting is the sun during the Golden Hour in the Moab.

Earlier this year at a photography event my seminar on “The Art of Lighting for Impact” followed Clay Blackmore’s spectacular lighting demonstration.  Clay, a Canon Explorer of Light, and I were using the same studio, so we assisted each other. While listening to Clay and observing his demonstration, he said something that stuck to me to this day that he learned from our mutual friend, the late Monte Zucker, known in the photo industry as the “Prince of Portraiture.”

Clay reminisced how Monte, who held the Master of Photography and Photographic Craftsman degrees from the Professional Photographers of America (PPA), always taught him that the greatest photos are the ones where the main light comes from the back, or the side, not necessarily the front.  I haven’t stopped thinking about it since, especially since Monte and a few other photographers and I were involved with an old business so I knew Monte well.

Photographers around the world miss Monte who earned the 2002 Photographer of the Year Award from the United Nations.  He was one of the greats and before his death “initiated the Zucker Institute for Photographic Inspiration, a charitable organization dedicated to inspiring at-risk youths through photography.”

Often I think about the conversations with Monte, but the day Clay spoke, I thought about some of my photos and sure enough, my better photos have a strong light from the side or back. I also remembered Monte making a similar statement to me at Photo Plus Expo one year about light from the back or sides and it seems like every time I pick up the camera to photograph someone, I immediately look at the light in a different manner than I did before.

It’s funny how I’d forgotten those words and how Clay’s spreading of the gospel of photography reminded me—obviously the best way to become a photographer is by practicing your craft, but also be hearing things in repetition and over time.  That’s why events like Photo Plus Expo are worth attending, perhaps you’ll see me there this year as I’m a speaker there once again.

Shelby illuminated from sun filtering light through a window in the Virgin Islands.

Shelby illuminated from sun filtering light through a window in the Virgin Islands.

Hence, I’ll repeat it today, if you want to capture some great photos, look at the direction of the light, then ask yourself, “Where is it coming from?”  If you see light coming from a nearby window, reposition your subject if you’re taking a portrait and place them near that light source and try to use that natural, diffused window light as the main light, but have it come from the side.

If you’re outdoors and you place your subject underneath a tree to take advantage of the open shade, turn their back toward the sun and have your subject move back far enough where the sun falls on their hair and shoulders, perhaps providing some nice accent or rim lighting, then fill your subject’s face in with light reflected from a California Sunbounce reflector or perhaps from the light of your on-camera flash or if you’re fortunate enough, from the flash of a portable studio power pack like a Hensel Porty Premium or a Broncolor Mobile A2R.

One of the greatest photography accessories for digital cameras today that I also like to carry, especially when working outdoors (though I use it in the studio too as my eyes aren’t as young as they used to be) is a HoodmanUSA, HoodLoupe 3.0.  While many photographers have loupes leftover from the film days of viewing slides on a light table, these are not the same as the HoodLoupe which doesn’t magnify pixels, as it uses three German glass lenses that give a true 1:1 viewing ratio.  This viewing ratio is important because when you “chimp” (view your images on your LCD screen while shooting), your pixels aren’t magnified. Magnified pixels from cheaper loupes create large dots from your screen’s pixels and it will throw you into a loop as you’ll misjudge your focusing.

And for those that claim to be more purest and don’t chimp but only use their LCD screens to verify their image histograms, these Hoodman loupes provide a glare free environment and come with an adjustable diopter of +/- 3, which comes in handy with eyeglass wearers like myself. When I’m looking for that sidelight outdoors, I usually have that HoodLoupe attached securely around my neck with the comfortable lanyard it comes with and I never worry about it banging around as it’s made of a user friendly rubber.

If you’re not fortunate to find that big mesquite or oak tree, like the kind we have in South Texas, then hopefully you can capture a great sunset shot with the subject’s back toward the sunset and by simply dragging your shutter (slow your shutter-speed down as the flash duration is the actual shutter-speed for your subject and the camera shutter-speed controls the ambient light) and increasing your aperture value (F/Stop) to match or by closing your lens aperture down another half to full stop and compensating with fill-flash to match (think overpowering the sun with flash).  Your sunset should back light your subject, thus your image should be amazingly appealing to any audience if done correctly.

During one of my Virgin Islands, Glamour, Beauty and the Nude photography workshops, I captured this image of Playboy model Ashly with the sun from behind.

During one of my Virgin Islands, Glamour, Beauty and the Nude photography workshops, I captured this image of Playboy model Ashly with the sun from behind.

Well that’s a photo tip for you today on lighting and the use of a proper loupe for previewing your images and histograms.  Hopefully Monte’s method of using side and back lighting will stick in the back of your head like it does to mine since Clay reminded me.  While Monte, also a Canon Explorer of Light, is resting in a better place, his words of photography wisdom are not forgotten.  I wish everyone the best, and don’t forget our service members, their families and friends, without them we’d have no freedoms and we’d certainly miss a lot of light.  Thanks, Rolando

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Phototherapy, Photographic Therapy, Therapeutic Photography–Yes, it’s Real!

For Free Photography Book on Photographic Therapy, Go here: www.freephotographybooks.com

American Idol Star Amy Davis, misses her hubby during a Virgin Islands Workshop

American Idol Star Amy Davis, misses her hubby during a Virgin Islands Workshop

After the article, “Posing naked for a women’s magazine felt brave and shocking,” by Melissa Whitworth came out in the UK’s version of Glamour magazine, the photographic therapy (phototherapy, therapeutic photography) topic has risen in photography forums world-wide. In fact, the very next day, I was called by a journalist and psychologist Clara Soares from the largest, weekly Portuguese newsmagazine Visão (www.visao.pt)  and answered some interview questions (actual story here)

The following day, I noticed the topic on one photography and model forum and as I engaged in the conversation, one female photographer said “…but I think that saying photography is therapy IS psycho-babble.”

Photography as therapy is not psycho-babble. I can tell you stories after stories, like the young woman, a former military police sergeant in the U.S. Army whose ex-husband used to beat her. She is not only intelligent, but beautiful and stands at 5′-10” tall. I photographed her for Playboy and she’s in my first photography book. She also modeled for me in some of my glamour photography workshops after she left the U.S. Army as an active-duty soldier. The process of our photo shoot, as she said, “Made her feel like a woman again.” She’s now remarried, with family and is a Federal law-enforcement agent. She’s obviously not working workshops or posing for Playboy anymore. She served and still serves her country well and patriotically.

I had another subject whose husband left her for the bridesmaid of their wedding. She’d just returned from completing the U.S. Air Force Officer Candidacy School and found her own clothes thrown on the front porch and her husband in bed with her best friend. Obviously it was instant divorce. Prior to her military enlistment she was a Wisconsin beauty pageant queen, in fact, she won the “Miss Photogenic” award and was the third-runner-up for this state beauty pageant. She felt hurt in this relationship to a point where she hated men for some time afterwards. During the phototherapy process, she stated, “This makes me feel beautiful and like a woman again.” She’s now happily remarried to a military pilot and they have kids and she’s honorably discharged out of the military service.

Another subject I was hired to photograph for a bariatric surgeon friend had lost 131 pounds thanks to that type of surgery—at the time she was 31-years of age. She’d come over for the “after” photo the surgeon had paid me to capture, a normal one-hour at the most photography session where the subject is photographed up against a plain, seamless, background paper illustrating how much weight she’d lost. I loved her charismatic qualities and inner- and outer-beauty, so I asked her to let me photograph her in a more “glamour photo,” perhaps on the couch or on the bed—for those wondering, with clothes, no nudity was involved. She mentioned no man had ever given her a second look and just to be in front of the camera, made her feel beautiful and like a woman again.

After the shoot, both her and my 275-pound assistant at the time, a tough guy that looked like he was a member of the Mexican Mafia, cried when I showed her the photos on my Apple Cinema display immediately after the shoot. I did something I rarely do, I burned her a CD of every photo taken and handed it to her, free of charge. She was beautiful with a clean complexion, there was no need for post-production. She gave me a big hug with tears still dripping from her eyes, that hug was my photographic therapy.

Now, to credit the photographer that made the initial statement about photographic therapy as psycho-babble, she also said, “An insecure woman may trust the photographer, but what if she trusts the wrong photographer? Wouldn’t that do more damage than good? “

A photo of "Shelby," a 27-year-old mother of two children.

A photo of "Shelby," a 27-year-old mother of two children.

She is precisely correct, the wrong photographer photographing someone in a depressed state of mind can make that depression worse. Depression kills. Depression comes in many forms from many things including postpartum depression. Just ask Tom Cruise and Brooke Shields about the latter form of depression. The problem is, most of the time we don’t know what’s on a person’s mind, hence building rapport with our subject is of the utmost importance before, during and after the shoot. A photographer, without prying too hard, should know enough about their subject to understand their state of mind, but a photographer should never think they are there to replace a trained, medical professional.  A photographer must learn when to listen and heed what they hear.  A photographer must know when to ask the right questions, how to ask them, where to ask them and why to ask them to help build that rapport between them in addition to understand their subject better and to help the phototherapy process flow with positive images.

If a photographer’s subject suffers from depression and that photographer doesn’t know how to recognize it, no matter how slight the depression may be, it can lead to a bad situation. A photographer should only look at their photography as a “layer” of treatment helping to build or re-build self-esteem but never to replace a physician prescribed drug or as a substitute for a therapy session by a trained, medical professional. Statistically, there are more male photographers than females, and even though some males feel they understand women, they will never know what it’s like to be a woman.

Motherhood is a good example. Unless a photographer has delivered a baby through a bodily canal, I doubt they understand what it’s like to give childbirth. It has nothing to do with changing diapers after the fact, that’s what good Dad’s do to help Mom’s out during postpartum recovery. “New mothers” go through a complete body change after childbirth. Photography is awesome, if done right, to make moms feel more secure about themselves again. Another article I wrote for my blog, Is it a Lens Barrel or a Gun Barrel? addresses that statement. Bravo for the photographer on the forum that brought this up because if a photographer doesn’t know what they’re doing, they can make postpartum depression worse and perhaps even leave a new child motherless for their entire life.

We grow up with "Ken and Barbie," but this photo of my daughter and her husband on their honeymoon illustrates that romance is there, no matter what physical features you don't see.

We grow up with "Ken and Barbie," but this photo of my daughter and her husband on their honeymoon illustrates that romance is there, no matter what physical features you don't see.

Now that leads me to another phototherapy experience. I had a subject, 8-weeks into motherhood. Her figure was gorgeous, though she didn’t think so. It was her first child, her only marriage. She wanted to “rekindle” that romance with her husband of a few years because she felt her body had changed and the fact that she had to give so much attention to her new-born that left no time for her husband. She also wanted this photographic therapy session for a surprise Valentines Day gift, a sweetheart romance gift, all for him. You could see the love for him in her eyes as she asked me to help her create the perfect photographs of her for this romantic moment she was so meticulously planning.  She wanted to show him she was still beautiful.

She hired me to photograph her on the beach in conservative swimwear and some fashion beach clothes. I photographed her for two days, never did she pose nude in any form. Never did I photograph her suggestively in any sorts. Beach clothes and swimwear, the most risqué, if you want to call it that, was a two-piece, full-bottom, bikini. She presented these photos from her phototherapy session to her husband with red-wine, strawberries and chocolates on Valentines Day right after consuming the in-home, candlelight dinner she’d carefully prepared all day—the baby was with the sitter that evening and night purposely so they could have this romantic time without interruption. She’d even disconnected the telephone.

It was a long-overdue romantic, quality-time with her husband, she later told me. All went well until she proudly presented her hubby with these professional photographs. Perhaps it was the wine, perhaps it was the built-up sexual frustration, perhaps it was insensitivity, perhaps it was the fact he was just a jerk. We’ll never know, but ultimately, he accused her of being a “slut” a “whore” a “worthless piece of crap” all because she had posed in photos with a male photographer–they are now divorced. She still cherishes those photos today and actually is thankful that she found out what she really married. She’s a proud parent feeling sexier and secure than before those photos were ever taken.

Moral of that story, no matter how good the photography or photographer is, no matter how much the subject “needs” to go through the phototherapy process and no matter how good it makes the subject feel and how much it can uplift self-esteem, others can still destroy it.

I might add, phototherapy isn’t just for women in their 30’s, like writer Melissa Whitworth, or women in their 40’s or even 50’s, it has a lot to do with women of every age and perhaps society is the reason. The minute we’re born, momma takes us to the grocery store. There we sit, in the grocery cart. As momma puts our baby food on the conveyer belt at the checkout counter we see magazines galore in every direction that we look. Glamour, Cosmopolitan, Sports Illustrated Swimwear, the weekly trashy rags too, all filled with buxom Barbie looking beauties proudly displaying their cleavage.

Young girls grow up with Barbie dolls–never are the dolls over-weight or middle-aged. When is the last time you saw a single parent, Barbie Mom? Society trains young girls way before puberty with the belief that to capture your perfect male playmate, he must be a tall, blonde, blue-eyed “Ken,” and that girls grow up to be a tall, slim, curvy, blonde, bombshell, Barbie.

As men, even our self-esteem is hurt when we realize we are not Ken. We accept who we are and move on. We age gracefully with our salt and pepper beards and hair. Perhaps that’s why many photographers, like myself, feel photographic therapy from the back-end of the camera, knowing we’re making our subjects happy with the results because obviously it’s not with our Ken-less looks.

Nudity is not a requirement of your subject during phototherapy.  It's ultimately your subject's decision if she will or will not pose nude for the camera.

Nudity is not a requirement of your subject during phototherapy. It's ultimately your subject's decision if she will or will not pose nude for the camera.

Society teaches us that the perfect body comes in many forms, from Playmates to Victoria Secret Angels. Our dads unknowingly add to that on football Sunday when the video camera pans across the playing fields broadcasting the sexy, slender, sultry and sensuous cheerleaders with butt cheeks and cleavage hanging out their mini-outfits. Bookstores across the world sell their cleavage abundant calendars, we later put them on our walls or desks to remind us year-round what we’ve been trained to like in qualities of a woman.

We see all kinds of television shows celebrating “T and A” in many forms, the television industry executives know, “Sex sells.” One of the hottest shows around the world was Baywatch and it was often joked about at the office the next day as “Babe Watch.” Our own society has programmed us to accept certain things, hence why the United States is a leader in the volume of breast implants and plastic surgery. I’m even sure the same holds true for tanning salons and Botox treatments. We are guilty, even I, as a photographer whose portfolio includes Playboy Playmate beauties, for creating this perception.

Do I regret it? No. I enjoy making women feel great about themselves because of my camera.  My finished photos and post-production with Adobe Photoshop fills in the gaps to help them look like that Barbie they never will be.  Perhaps that’s why the term “Photoshopped” was coined, because like a darkroom, it allows for corrections of blemishes with the clone and the flattening of stomachs with a little liquify tool.  ”Heck, you want big breasts, no problem, just liquify them right out in Photoshop,” is something I’ve heard photographers tell models at some of my workshops.

I was hired by St. Martin’s Press to photograph a New York Times best-selling romance author, Lisa Kleypas for her first mainstream book, Sugar Daddy.   At the time, Lisa was a 42-year-old mother of two and  explained to me before the shoot that she didn’t want to look “fat” in her photos.  I understood.  Lisa later wrote on her blog, “This is the photo that will go on the back of Sugar Daddy. Lisa-au-casual. It was taken by an incredibly talented photographer, Rolando Gomez, who is great at making women look their best. He finds the right angles and the right lighting, and he makes you feel comfortable and unselfconscious. The photo hasn’t been touched up or photoshopped . . . which leads to the following confession: Before the first picture was even taken, I was looking forward to that photoshopping.”  (read more from Lisa and myself)

New York Times best-selling romance author, Lisa Kleypas in the original photo chosen for her book, Sugar Daddy.

New York Times best-selling romance author, Lisa Kleypas in the original photo chosen for her book, Sugar Daddy.

As proven through her book sales, Lisa understands the female audience well and the market for romance novels is extremely large in the book industry. Romance novels are the fairytales many Barbies experienced, perhaps the foundation for those novels started at the Barbie stage, obviously without the more provocative and sexually discriptive vocabulary.

The Internet model and photography websites are no different. I’ve seen profiles of models that display anger because people criticize how they look in their more poorly done photos, especially when the photographer does no post-production or doesn’t know how to do it properly. Thankfully for them, a seasoned professional photographer knows photogenic beauty when they see it and normally does not judge a model’s talent for lack of the photographer’s talent or photoshopping skills.

I’ve already written about 35,000 words of a 50,000-word book on phototherapy and it wasn’t done overnight. A typical book takes at least a year to write, this one I’ve been working for what seems like 20-years because the experiences come from my 30-plus-years as a professional photographer. This is not a book of photos or photo essays, this is more a book of words, perhaps a follow-on book will be more a photography book, coffee-table oriented. Unlike my previous three photography books (fourth due out soon), this book on phototherapy is a mainstream book for everyone. The more specific target audience is people who believe in the power of photography to help build or re-build self-esteem. Ultimately I hope that a reader will come to realize that a close friend or family member is in need of a little phototherapy in their life and will recommend a well researched-out photographer. Perhaps they will indirectly save a life with this recommendation. Photographers will hopefully learn from this book by simply understanding the phototherapy process and scenarios.  (Literary agents take note, I don’t have one, but need one!)

My only hold back, unlike “How-To” photography books, mainstream books require a good literary agent if you want to land a decent publisher. This type of book not only requires a top publisher, but it deserves it. I also want to add, while Melissa Whitworth’s article in the UK’s version of Glamour magazine was about “nude” phototherapy photography, I firmly believe nudity is not a requirement though the subject should have that as an option. The golden rule in any type of photography, whether it’s coined photographic therapy, phototherapy, therapeutic photography, etc., is that the photographer should never force their subjects to pose in any manner they don’t want. It should be a marriage of the minds between the subject and the professional photographer, a collaboration to create photographs that will ultimately please the subject and enforce her self-esteem in a positive manner.

Well I close now, and if you want to hear my thoughts, here’s an interview I did in Oct. 2006 while attending Photo Plus Expo in New York as a guest speaker–yes, I’m speaking this year again, though a different topic.  Enjoy, and don’t forget our service men and women, their families and friends and all those that help protect our freedoms.  Thanks, Rolando

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The Aperture is Forgotten

As an instructor of over 400 photography workshops, lectures and seminars for almost eleven years, I’ve witnessed a practically unanimous change from film photography to digital photography as the choice of the image capture medium. Rarely do I see a roll of film or film cameras in the hands of my many attendees.  It’s practically nonexistent and the debate once associated over the fate of film at the hands of digital is dead too.  

© 2009 Rolando Gomez, My Daughter and Son-in-Law

© 2009 Rolando Gomez, My Daughter and Son-in-Law

Photographers have come to accept digital is here to stay, it’s an evolution, not a revolution and in that acceptance, most photographers lost focus of how equipment has evolved with this now common medium of capture.  As an example, a new photographer will never know that an aperture ring with numbered aperture values (F/stops) once existed on lenses.  Most of the more veteran photographers haven’t noticed the ring is missing and if they have, they just take it for granted as they’ve become accustomed to all the values and settings along with “chimping” and viewing the histograms on their LCD displays and the LCD panels on the camera tops for verification of those settings.

The irony of all the displays, from the rear LCD screen to the top of the camera screen and even the screen in the viewfinder is that the effect it’s had on photographers parallels how society tends to lose its customs, values and traditions as new family generations adapt to their surroundings—similar to a sociological pattern change, humans adapt.

This adaptation has caused photographers to forget the meaning of that aperture ring and why the ring had values like 1.4, 2.8, 5.6 and even 8 and eleven.  That ring, and the actual numerical values are all based on the Inverse Square Law.

Now it’s not uncommon if you ask any photographer, even top professionals, on the spot, to explain the Inverse Square Law that they will stop to think and most of the time tap dance their way out of the conversation though they truly understand and practice that physics law we apply to photography.  I myself stumble when unexpectedly asked to cite the Inverse Square Law verbatim, but I have a method that always bails me out—the aperture ring on my lens.  The problem is all my new lenses have no aperture rings except the lenses for my Leica M-8 digital rangefinder.

Regardless whether you own a Leica lens or a lens with an aperture ring, the concept is simple, aperture values are based on the Inverse Square Law and that is why a lens has a few numbers with decimal point values like 1.8, 2.8, and 5.6 and not 2, 3, 5 as whole number values.

In the old film days, we’d look at our lenses and always understand that the difference between F/2.8 and F/4 is one stop of more light (50-percent brighter) in one direction and 50-percent less light in another direction (darker).   While those aperture values helped us understand light passing through a lenses and striking the film plane, we also understood that the higher the aperture value the more depth-of-field we’d gain in our images and smaller the aperture value, the less depth-of-field we’d gain from the focus point.

Yet there was another purpose of that aperture value ring on our lenses, it could actually help you calculate the effects of the Inverse Square Law simply by looking at the dial and understanding the correlation of those numbers with the subject to light distance or the light to background distance.  As an example, if I had my model four feet from the main light source illuminating her for my photograph and decided she was one stop too dark in the exposure, I’d merely move the light in so that the distance between my model and the light source was two-feet, eight inches (think F/2.8).  If the condition was in reverse where my model was too bright by one aperture value at four feet, I’d simply move my subject from the light source so the distance would equal five-feet, six-inches (think F/5.6).  This in fact is the Inverse Square Law.  In fact if my subject was two full aperture values too bright, I’d ensure the distance between my subject would change from the original value of four-feet to eight-feet (F/8.0).

The same holds true for controlling our backgrounds, if we have our model four-feet from the main light source and the model is four-feet from the background, and expose correctly for the model, the background is then receiving two stops or aperture values less of light to illuminate it as it’s eight feet from the light source in total distance.  If I decided I wanted to brighten the background one F/stop, I’d simply keep the same distance from the main light source to my subject, four-feet in this case, but ensure that the background is now five-feet, six-inches from my main light source and of course if I wanted the background another F/stop darker from the original eight-foot distance, I’d make sure my background was eleven-feet from my main light source.

Now that aperture rings are almost gone from lenses, we see on our digital camera LCD screens aperture values like 5, 6.3, 7.1, 9, 10, etc. and unfortunately the correlation of those numerical values and the Inverse Square Law seems forgotten.

 

 

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The Need to Release, Models

Tess in the Virgin Islands during photography workshop.

Tess in the Virgin Islands during photography workshop.

The need for model releases are often brought up in Internet forums, and unfortunately information on model releases on the Internet are often misleading, especially on model and photographer Internet forums.  This often makes me wonder, how some photographers and models enter into shooting sessions clueless about the truth when it comes to their professions? And it’s not limited to the amateurs, professionals alike often fall into this category due to their own misconceptions.

Many photographers and models, in addition to other creatives, fall into the trap of confusing releases with copyright law—when in fact copyright laws are designed to protect the publication or misuse of someone’s images, normally a photographer’s photos, by others without the original creator’s (normally the photographer’s) permission.

Model releases are generally designed to protect the photographer, not the unauthorized publication of a photo without the photographer’s consent.  A photographer needs the release from a model because the release grants the photographer rights to use the “likeness’ of the identifiable subject/model.  Model release requirements vary from state to state.  In reality, model releases are legal contracts allowing photographers to use the likeness of a person in the photographer’s photo for commercial gain—it’s a binding contract between two parties.

Commercial gain doesn’t have to be specifically a monetary gain, and this is one area photographers fail to understand.  If a photograph is posted of a model on a photographer’s public portfolio on the Internet, or even a print of that same image hung in the photographer’s studio, a model release is generally required because the photographer tends to make some type of gain, including the gain of a new client, a new subject, or the viewing pleasure of a potential client—an advertisement of that photographer’s skills.

When in doubt, always secure a model release.  There are a few times were a model release is not required, such as editorial use for publication in a news feature or news story—provided there is no invasion of privacy.  However, once an image is used to promote anything for value, it then becomes commercial use and the photographer needs to secure a release from the model in the photos for their own protection., sometimes a more specific use release is more appropriate too.

In a nutshell, a photographer owns the image as soon as the shutter is released from their camera (copyright law) but the person in the image owns their likeness (civil law).  And even some states have specific requirements on ages that a model can legally sign a release, especially if nudity is involved.  Not every state requires that a model be a minimum of 18-years of age to sign a release, some states require higher ages for a release to be valid in that state of jurisdiction.

As a rule of thumb, always get a model to sign a release before a shoot if you feel your images have some commercial value or future commercial use.  If there is any nudity involved, always have two forms of your subject’s identification, at least one in color and government issued, and photograph the subject holding those two ID’s, crop tight so the ID’s are next to your subject’s face and are readable.  Print one copy of that image and staple it to the model release.  Save a digital copy in your folder/directory of images for that model.  When in doubt, always consult a lawyer.  Never settle for “promotional” releases, these are about as good as toilet paper.

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